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Re: Following Protocol...
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PostPosted: Tue Mar 09, 2010 11:04 pm 
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LaTechGTO wrote:
NotRen wrote:
he has headers, and an intake (not intake mani). i think it trapped 113 or so.
NA my car has ran a best of 7.05 in the 1/8th and 9.07 @ 112 in the 1000ft


I am assuming that his trap was in the 1/4 but even then, that is really fast for even a stock-ish Camaro and a regular driver. The fastest traps I have seen out of a completely stock camaro is 111 but that was running a 12.61. I think that Hennessey was only cutting a 108 @13.6 when they first took delivery of them... but trap speed is where you can really tell the power. Does he have it tuned?

No 1/4 runs for you? Those gears are really doing wonders for you in the 1/8th. I could only imagine what they are doing for you down at the big end!

no 1/4 mile tracks in Ar. now that i moved down here all the tracks closed... and yes the gears did help quite a bit with my short times, thinking about going to 4.56's and a 28in slick right now at the track i run a 26in slick and it is perfect.

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Re: Following Protocol...
PostPosted: Tue Mar 09, 2010 11:10 pm 
Bane Corvette
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LaTechGTO wrote:
CorvetteChris wrote:
95% of the tech articles Ive read on Tech and even one more recently where they did back to back comparisons of the two, neither was really better than the other. I paid $150 for the LS2 manifold and fuel rails. Thats like a sore wiener, you cant beat it!

I san non-LS1 referring to 317 heads, LS2 headgaskets, LS2 intake/fuel rails/TB. Yeah, they are LS interchangeable parts, but just not that shit it came with on my stock block, baby 347 LOL

There have been a few FAST intakes blow under boosted conditions. They were all over 15psi, IIRC, and thats enough for me to stay away. i didnt want to spend the money on a single plane because I still run stock cubes and I dont think its worth the money, compared to what I already have. Will it make a few more HP, Yeah prob so, but so will 1 psi of boost LOL


That is weird because I can tell a huge difference in just he molding between the LS2 and LS1 intake. The LS2 looks like the local kindergarten kids epoxied it together, lol. I spend about 3-4x more time porting and polishing LS2 intakes because they are so sloppy. Once again, like you said though, on your application (FI), you wouldn't notice more than a 10-15hp difference. I agree that is a decent price on the intake especially since it came with fuel rails.
The LS6 intake is leaps and bounds better than the LS1, but my LS2 is a nice piece. Im not sure which ones you got your hands on, but its as clean at my LS6 was, and the actual surface that everyone sees is much smoother. I dont even think it would be a 10-15 hp difference if I swapped intakes.


What benefit did you gain out of the 317s? I would have thought going with a 2.08/1.57 241 would have been the route to go since you already had the 241 and, once again, you are FI and the flow profiles don't matter as much as surface area. Are the 317s a 4" bore head (like LQ(X))? Baby 347 huh??? ... well I like my baby motor :P???
I sold my Tony Mamo ported AFR 205's for stock 317s to lower my compression. The 317's are basically LS6 heads with larger chambers from what I understand. The only other option I had was to change the pistons, and that seemed like a stupid idea compared to a head swap. Yeah, the 317 heads are off a 6.0 LQ9, which is a 4" bore. I definitely like my motor, but If I did it again, I would have gone a little bigger. Its not bad for a 100% true street car though :mrgreen:

Oh, for some reason I was thinking that you were <10psi. HAHA, GOOD POINT! I like the way you think!
Well, I have an EBoost2 so 3 of my boost settings are below 10psi, but the other 3 are above 10psi. I can change it while driving down the road....its that easy.

Btw, don't take anything I am saying/asking the wrong way; I am still trying to learn real-life applications of what works and doesn't work, not just hear-say over the interwebz because I just might be going down this road pretty soon. So it would be nice to know what is worth it and works as opposed to wasting a lot of money with trial and error :D

Oh, Im definitely not man. Im not a guy who thinks I know everything, because I dont. I enjoy educated car conversations. Im just giving my results that have seemed to work for me.

My shortblock has great fucking parts, but everythings else was really done with a budget in mind, hence the stock top end, used turbo kit, etc... I cant wait for the day when I get out of grad school and make good money to actually put a badass build together. :twisted:

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Re: Following Protocol...
PostPosted: Wed Mar 10, 2010 8:47 pm 
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NotRen wrote:
LaTechGTO wrote:
NotRen wrote:
he has headers, and an intake (not intake mani). i think it trapped 113 or so.
NA my car has ran a best of 7.05 in the 1/8th and 9.07 @ 112 in the 1000ft


I am assuming that his trap was in the 1/4 but even then, that is really fast for even a stock-ish Camaro and a regular driver. The fastest traps I have seen out of a completely stock camaro is 111 but that was running a 12.61. I think that Hennessey was only cutting a 108 @13.6 when they first took delivery of them... but trap speed is where you can really tell the power. Does he have it tuned?

No 1/4 runs for you? Those gears are really doing wonders for you in the 1/8th. I could only imagine what they are doing for you down at the big end!

no 1/4 mile tracks in Ar. now that i moved down here all the tracks closed... and yes the gears did help quite a bit with my short times, thinking about going to 4.56's and a 28in slick right now at the track i run a 26in slick and it is perfect.


Yeah, I know the feeling! I am headed to Dallas to get to a good track at the end of April to kick off the new year. I am just going to stay the weekend over there in a RV so I don't have to worry about traveling back and forth or dealing with a hotel. I think there is going to be quite a few of my friend headed over there if anyone is interested. I would love to see what kind of times you would put down with those 4.56's with a 26" slick instead of a 28" slick!!!!

CorvetteChris wrote:
LaTechGTO wrote:
CorvetteChris wrote:
95% of the tech articles Ive read on Tech and even one more recently where they did back to back comparisons of the two, neither was really better than the other. I paid $150 for the LS2 manifold and fuel rails. Thats like a sore wiener, you cant beat it!

I san non-LS1 referring to 317 heads, LS2 headgaskets, LS2 intake/fuel rails/TB. Yeah, they are LS interchangeable parts, but just not that shit it came with on my stock block, baby 347 LOL

There have been a few FAST intakes blow under boosted conditions. They were all over 15psi, IIRC, and thats enough for me to stay away. i didnt want to spend the money on a single plane because I still run stock cubes and I dont think its worth the money, compared to what I already have. Will it make a few more HP, Yeah prob so, but so will 1 psi of boost LOL


That is weird because I can tell a huge difference in just he molding between the LS2 and LS1 intake. The LS2 looks like the local kindergarten kids epoxied it together, lol. I spend about 3-4x more time porting and polishing LS2 intakes because they are so sloppy. Once again, like you said though, on your application (FI), you wouldn't notice more than a 10-15hp difference. I agree that is a decent price on the intake especially since it came with fuel rails.
The LS6 intake is leaps and bounds better than the LS1, but my LS2 is a nice piece. Im not sure which ones you got your hands on, but its as clean at my LS6 was, and the actual surface that everyone sees is much smoother. I dont even think it would be a 10-15 hp difference if I swapped intakes.

Hmmmm like I said earlier, that is weird. I have ported close to 10 LS2 intakes and they are all the same. Even after going pretty extreme on the runners, there are still deep pits at the joints of the molded layers. I disagree, and I am willing to let you borrow my intake and tb for testing purposes :mrgreen:


What benefit did you gain out of the 317s? I would have thought going with a 2.08/1.57 241 would have been the route to go since you already had the 241 and, once again, you are FI and the flow profiles don't matter as much as surface area. Are the 317s a 4" bore head (like LQ(X))? Baby 347 huh??? ... well I like my baby motor :P???
I sold my Tony Mamo ported AFR 205's for stock 317s to lower my compression. The 317's are basically LS6 heads with larger chambers from what I understand. The only other option I had was to change the pistons, and that seemed like a stupid idea compared to a head swap. Yeah, the 317 heads are off a 6.0 LQ9, which is a 4" bore. I definitely like my motor, but If I did it again, I would have gone a little bigger. Its not bad for a 100% true street car though :mrgreen:

I bet you came out with $$$ on top too, lol! You are right on both accounts... they have a very similar runner profile to 243 casting heads but the main difference (like you said...) is the combustion chamber. The 317s have ~71cc chambers while the 243 have ~64cc. I wouldn't say that it was your only option (some people fly-cut the pistons to reduce their SCR) but the most feasible, yes. When I go with a FI motor, I will most likely go with something in the low 400ci range (403 or 408) and try and keep my SCR ~10:1. That way I don't have to go to a race style FI to have to try and feed a big cubic inch motor. I hear about guys all the time building these huge, nasty big cube engines and have to go to a F1-R just to feed (turbos aside...) it because most roots style blowers run out of breath trying to supply the air. Hell, there are a few 427 guys trying to run 2300s, and they are having real fits.

Oh, for some reason I was thinking that you were <10psi. HAHA, GOOD POINT! I like the way you think!
Well, I have an EBoost2 so 3 of my boost settings are below 10psi, but the other 3 are above 10psi. I can change it while driving down the road....its that easy.

Wow... how does your computer take the changes on the fly? At what boost level do you feel like it is borderline unusable in 2nd and 3rd gear (maybe in fourth too)?


Btw, don't take anything I am saying/asking the wrong way; I am still trying to learn real-life applications of what works and doesn't work, not just hear-say over the interwebz because I just might be going down this road pretty soon. So it would be nice to know what is worth it and works as opposed to wasting a lot of money with trial and error :D

Oh, Im definitely not man. Im not a guy who thinks I know everything, because I dont. I enjoy educated car conversations. Im just giving my results that have seemed to work for me.

My shortblock has great fucking parts, but everythings else was really done with a budget in mind, hence the stock top end, used turbo kit, etc... I cant wait for the day when I get out of grad school and make good money to actually put a badass build together. :twisted:


Cool deal. I am still learning every time that I get on the forums.

HAHA, I know what you mean. I started to go with an extreme budget build back when I was in college. After I graduated, I decided that I would go FI, then I jumped back and forth between plans (Procharger, Maggie, H/C, H/C/I, etc) and jobs, lol, for almost a year and a half after I graduated. I spent more on heads than I originally planned for my whole entire top end build, or in more comparable situation, even more than I paid for my truck (even though it is a '98 Dodge Dakota 4x4, it still is a vehicle, haha). I was told over and over again that I would be hard pressed to hit anything over 400rwhp with as 'mild' as a cam that I went with and some LS6 heads. I can now sit back and laugh because I am pretty sure that I exceeded that goal by a long shot. I can't wait for my next build... I just have to find the car :)

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Re: Following Protocol...
PostPosted: Wed Mar 10, 2010 8:54 pm 
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mehh the 4.56's would be to steep for that small of a tire, i am fairly sure this is about as good as it will get with the 26's. the car has cut 1.51 60's with stock shocks/springs/swaybar front and rear. i have since put the wolfe bar out back and might be buying some da shocks here pretty soon, or atleast some better shocks then my 124k mile crap shoots.

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Re: Following Protocol...
PostPosted: Wed Mar 10, 2010 11:02 pm 
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NotRen wrote:
mehh the 4.56's would be to steep for that small of a tire, i am fairly sure this is about as good as it will get with the 26's. the car has cut 1.51 60's with stock shocks/springs/swaybar front and rear. i have since put the wolfe bar out back and might be buying some da shocks here pretty soon, or atleast some better shocks then my 124k mile crap shoots.


I don't know, but I do know that it would be fun to try it out, haha. That is a good 60'... personally, I haven't cut a 60' that good since I raced my lil' ole S10 which is getting taken apart and put back together weekend after this one coming up. I am trying to get it ready so that I can take it to Dallas too.

I don't know how true this is I have actually heard of people saying swaybars hurt a cars geometry out of the hole. I guess to back that up, a majority of F-body guys that I know take the rear swaybar completely out and slap on some adj phb's, torque arms and subframe connectors. If they go further, they usually just throw in a moser 9".

There are a few things that I like about F-bodys... they are light up front, have a suspension that is actually worth a shit enough to even bother upgrading (without having to buy complete rearend swaps to make it worth while) and not extremely over priced if one does decide to upgrade it (the car in general). For instance, a set of 3.91 gears, just gear and pinion, run about $700!!!

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Re: Following Protocol...
PostPosted: Thu Mar 11, 2010 12:01 am 
Bane Corvette
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Location: Bossier City, La
LaTechGTO wrote:
CorvetteChris wrote:
95% of the tech articles Ive read on Tech and even one more recently where they did back to back comparisons of the two, neither was really better than the other. I paid $150 for the LS2 manifold and fuel rails. Thats like a sore wiener, you cant beat it!

I san non-LS1 referring to 317 heads, LS2 headgaskets, LS2 intake/fuel rails/TB. Yeah, they are LS interchangeable parts, but just not that shit it came with on my stock block, baby 347 LOL

There have been a few FAST intakes blow under boosted conditions. They were all over 15psi, IIRC, and thats enough for me to stay away. i didnt want to spend the money on a single plane because I still run stock cubes and I dont think its worth the money, compared to what I already have. Will it make a few more HP, Yeah prob so, but so will 1 psi of boost LOL


That is weird because I can tell a huge difference in just he molding between the LS2 and LS1 intake. The LS2 looks like the local kindergarten kids epoxied it together, lol. I spend about 3-4x more time porting and polishing LS2 intakes because they are so sloppy. Once again, like you said though, on your application (FI), you wouldn't notice more than a 10-15hp difference. I agree that is a decent price on the intake especially since it came with fuel rails.
The LS6 intake is leaps and bounds better than the LS1, but my LS2 is a nice piece. Im not sure which ones you got your hands on, but its as clean at my LS6 was, and the actual surface that everyone sees is much smoother. I dont even think it would be a 10-15 hp difference if I swapped intakes.

Hmmmm like I said earlier, that is weird. I have ported close to 10 LS2 intakes and they are all the same. Even after going pretty extreme on the runners, there are still deep pits at the joints of the molded layers. I disagree, and I am willing to let you borrow my intake and tb for testing purposes :mrgreen:

Ive never ported one, so I will just take your word for it LOL All I was commenting on was the superficial appreance. If I would have already had an LS6 intake, I might have kept it, but there are guys running over 900rwhp through them and thats good enough for me. I ran the question by my tuner, who builds some absolutely sick shit, and he told me to go with the LS2. However, I have also seen awesome numbers (both dyno and track) from cars running the LS6. :thumbup:

What benefit did you gain out of the 317s? I would have thought going with a 2.08/1.57 241 would have been the route to go since you already had the 241 and, once again, you are FI and the flow profiles don't matter as much as surface area. Are the 317s a 4" bore head (like LQ(X))? Baby 347 huh??? ... well I like my baby motor :P???
I sold my Tony Mamo ported AFR 205's for stock 317s to lower my compression. The 317's are basically LS6 heads with larger chambers from what I understand. The only other option I had was to change the pistons, and that seemed like a stupid idea compared to a head swap. Yeah, the 317 heads are off a 6.0 LQ9, which is a 4" bore. I definitely like my motor, but If I did it again, I would have gone a little bigger. Its not bad for a 100% true street car though :mrgreen:

I bet you came out with $$$ on top too, lol! You are right on both accounts... they have a very similar runner profile to 243 casting heads but the main difference (like you said...) is the combustion chamber. The 317s have ~71cc chambers while the 243 have ~64cc. I wouldn't say that it was your only option (some people fly-cut the pistons to reduce their SCR) but the most feasible, yes. When I go with a FI motor, I will most likely go with something in the low 400ci range (403 or 408) and try and keep my SCR ~10:1. That way I don't have to go to a race style FI to have to try and feed a big cubic inch motor. I hear about guys all the time building these huge, nasty big cube engines and have to go to a F1-R just to feed (turbos aside...) it because most roots style blowers run out of breath trying to supply the air. Hell, there are a few 427 guys trying to run 2300s, and they are having real fits.
Yeah, I didnt even have a clean up pass done to resurface the deck of my heads because I wanted to keep them at ~71cc. Id prefer my motor be lower compression and run more boost as compared to higher compression with less boost. Flycutting was absolutely out of the question with my Weisco pistons with -2cc valve reliefs already in them. It was either a head swap or take the LME shortblock apart and start from scratch and that option didnt even cross my mind.
I know what you mean, I absolutely can not stand PD blowers. I think they are more of a heat pump than a supercharger.....from the aftermarket companies anyway.


Oh, for some reason I was thinking that you were <10psi. HAHA, GOOD POINT! I like the way you think!
Well, I have an EBoost2 so 3 of my boost settings are below 10psi, but the other 3 are above 10psi. I can change it while driving down the road....its that easy.

Wow... how does your computer take the changes on the fly? At what boost level do you feel like it is borderline unusable in 2nd and 3rd gear (maybe in fourth too)?


Btw, don't take anything I am saying/asking the wrong way; I am still trying to learn real-life applications of what works and doesn't work, not just hear-say over the interwebz because I just might be going down this road pretty soon. So it would be nice to know what is worth it and works as opposed to wasting a lot of money with trial and error :D

Oh, Im definitely not man. Im not a guy who thinks I know everything, because I dont. I enjoy educated car conversations. Im just giving my results that have seemed to work for me.

My shortblock has great fucking parts, but everythings else was really done with a budget in mind, hence the stock top end, used turbo kit, etc... I cant wait for the day when I get out of grad school and make good money to actually put a badass build together. :twisted:

[/quote]
Cool deal. I am still learning every time that I get on the forums.

HAHA, I know what you mean. I started to go with an extreme budget build back when I was in college. After I graduated, I decided that I would go FI, then I jumped back and forth between plans (Procharger, Maggie, H/C, H/C/I, etc) and jobs, lol, for almost a year and a half after I graduated. I spent more on heads than I originally planned for my whole entire top end build, or in more comparable situation, even more than I paid for my truck (even though it is a '98 Dodge Dakota 4x4, it still is a vehicle, haha). I was told over and over again that I would be hard pressed to hit anything over 400rwhp with as 'mild' as a cam that I went with and some LS6 heads. I can now sit back and laugh because I am pretty sure that I exceeded that goal by a long shot. I can't wait for my next build... I just have to find the car :)
[/quote]

Well I am about to start graduate school in May so I wont be able to make any changes or start anything new for the next 3 years.

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Re: Following Protocol...
PostPosted: Thu Mar 11, 2010 12:06 am 
Bane Corvette
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I forgot to answer your boost controller question.

I havent been flying down the road and been able to do a boost sweep through all the parameters, but I can make a run in boost set point 1, slow down enough to look down and change it, and then make another pass in another boost group. The only problem is traction. LOL On the lowest boost set point, I have a hell of a time getting traction in first and second. In the higher boost settings, I can forget about anyting in the first 3 gears unless its from a higher roll. It may get better with the heat of the summer.

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Re: Following Protocol...
PostPosted: Thu Mar 11, 2010 11:13 am 
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idk where you got that info about sway bars but it is not in the least bit correct. if you remove the rear sway bar the car would shift so badly to the passenger side it would probably be hard to drive. people who have fast fbods with a torque arm style suspension generally have a stiffer (than stock) rear sway bar. With out sway bars the car has no chance at staying level/leaving straight when you take off.

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Re: Following Protocol...
PostPosted: Fri Mar 12, 2010 7:17 am 
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CorvetteChris wrote:
LaTechGTO wrote:
CorvetteChris wrote:
95% of the tech articles Ive read on Tech and even one more recently where they did back to back comparisons of the two, neither was really better than the other. I paid $150 for the LS2 manifold and fuel rails. Thats like a sore wiener, you cant beat it!

I san non-LS1 referring to 317 heads, LS2 headgaskets, LS2 intake/fuel rails/TB. Yeah, they are LS interchangeable parts, but just not that shit it came with on my stock block, baby 347 LOL

There have been a few FAST intakes blow under boosted conditions. They were all over 15psi, IIRC, and thats enough for me to stay away. i didnt want to spend the money on a single plane because I still run stock cubes and I dont think its worth the money, compared to what I already have. Will it make a few more HP, Yeah prob so, but so will 1 psi of boost LOL


That is weird because I can tell a huge difference in just he molding between the LS2 and LS1 intake. The LS2 looks like the local kindergarten kids epoxied it together, lol. I spend about 3-4x more time porting and polishing LS2 intakes because they are so sloppy. Once again, like you said though, on your application (FI), you wouldn't notice more than a 10-15hp difference. I agree that is a decent price on the intake especially since it came with fuel rails.
The LS6 intake is leaps and bounds better than the LS1, but my LS2 is a nice piece. Im not sure which ones you got your hands on, but its as clean at my LS6 was, and the actual surface that everyone sees is much smoother. I dont even think it would be a 10-15 hp difference if I swapped intakes.

Hmmmm like I said earlier, that is weird. I have ported close to 10 LS2 intakes and they are all the same. Even after going pretty extreme on the runners, there are still deep pits at the joints of the molded layers. I disagree, and I am willing to let you borrow my intake and tb for testing purposes :mrgreen:

Ive never ported one, so I will just take your word for it LOL All I was commenting on was the superficial appreance. If I would have already had an LS6 intake, I might have kept it, but there are guys running over 900rwhp through them and thats good enough for me. I ran the question by my tuner, who builds some absolutely sick shit, and he told me to go with the LS2. However, I have also seen awesome numbers (both dyno and track) from cars running the LS6. :thumbup:

HAHA, I was thinking that you were actually talking about the internal joint!!! I definitlely agree that the LS2 looks better on the outside. In fact, I talked to a friend of mine last night and he had never ported his an intake at all, and he was commenting on how crappy the insides looked.

What benefit did you gain out of the 317s? I would have thought going with a 2.08/1.57 241 would have been the route to go since you already had the 241 and, once again, you are FI and the flow profiles don't matter as much as surface area. Are the 317s a 4" bore head (like LQ(X))? Baby 347 huh??? ... well I like my baby motor :P???
I sold my Tony Mamo ported AFR 205's for stock 317s to lower my compression. The 317's are basically LS6 heads with larger chambers from what I understand. The only other option I had was to change the pistons, and that seemed like a stupid idea compared to a head swap. Yeah, the 317 heads are off a 6.0 LQ9, which is a 4" bore. I definitely like my motor, but If I did it again, I would have gone a little bigger. Its not bad for a 100% true street car though :mrgreen:

I bet you came out with $$$ on top too, lol! You are right on both accounts... they have a very similar runner profile to 243 casting heads but the main difference (like you said...) is the combustion chamber. The 317s have ~71cc chambers while the 243 have ~64cc. I wouldn't say that it was your only option (some people fly-cut the pistons to reduce their SCR) but the most feasible, yes. When I go with a FI motor, I will most likely go with something in the low 400ci range (403 or 408) and try and keep my SCR ~10:1. That way I don't have to go to a race style FI to have to try and feed a big cubic inch motor. I hear about guys all the time building these huge, nasty big cube engines and have to go to a F1-R just to feed (turbos aside...) it because most roots style blowers run out of breath trying to supply the air. Hell, there are a few 427 guys trying to run 2300s, and they are having real fits.
Yeah, I didnt even have a clean up pass done to resurface the deck of my heads because I wanted to keep them at ~71cc. Id prefer my motor be lower compression and run more boost as compared to higher compression with less boost. Flycutting was absolutely out of the question with my Weisco pistons with -2cc valve reliefs already in them. It was either a head swap or take the LME shortblock apart and start from scratch and that option didnt even cross my mind.
I know what you mean, I absolutely can not stand PD blowers. I think they are more of a heat pump than a supercharger.....from the aftermarket companies anyway.

I totally understand all of that! I always pick at my friend with the Terminator. I ask him how he likes his pumping all of that hot air in his engine. His reply is 'well, it's gonna get hot anyways! haha'
Oh, for some reason I was thinking that you were <10psi. HAHA, GOOD POINT! I like the way you think!
Well, I have an EBoost2 so 3 of my boost settings are below 10psi, but the other 3 are above 10psi. I can change it while driving down the road....its that easy.

Wow... how does your computer take the changes on the fly? At what boost level do you feel like it is borderline unusable in 2nd and 3rd gear (maybe in fourth too)?


Btw, don't take anything I am saying/asking the wrong way; I am still trying to learn real-life applications of what works and doesn't work, not just hear-say over the interwebz because I just might be going down this road pretty soon. So it would be nice to know what is worth it and works as opposed to wasting a lot of money with trial and error :D

Oh, Im definitely not man. Im not a guy who thinks I know everything, because I dont. I enjoy educated car conversations. Im just giving my results that have seemed to work for me.

My shortblock has great fucking parts, but everythings else was really done with a budget in mind, hence the stock top end, used turbo kit, etc... I cant wait for the day when I get out of grad school and make good money to actually put a badass build together. :twisted:


Cool deal. I am still learning every time that I get on the forums.

HAHA, I know what you mean. I started to go with an extreme budget build back when I was in college. After I graduated, I decided that I would go FI, then I jumped back and forth between plans (Procharger, Maggie, H/C, H/C/I, etc) and jobs, lol, for almost a year and a half after I graduated. I spent more on heads than I originally planned for my whole entire top end build, or in more comparable situation, even more than I paid for my truck (even though it is a '98 Dodge Dakota 4x4, it still is a vehicle, haha). I was told over and over again that I would be hard pressed to hit anything over 400rwhp with as 'mild' as a cam that I went with and some LS6 heads. I can now sit back and laugh because I am pretty sure that I exceeded that goal by a long shot. I can't wait for my next build... I just have to find the car :)
[/quote]

Well I am about to start graduate school in May so I wont be able to make any changes or start anything new for the next 3 years. [/quote]

I never thought I would say this but just like someone told me... school is what is important and you won't believe the things that you can do when you get out. Sacrifice some of the modding now to be able to do it later and not have to worry about if you blow the motor.

The hardest part for me while I was in school is that I refused to put myself in a bind by trying to do what I wanted to do just so that I could have a fast car. I just settled with a full bolt-on car. Oh well, those days are long gone!

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Re: Following Protocol...
PostPosted: Fri Mar 12, 2010 7:23 am 
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CorvetteChris wrote:
I forgot to answer your boost controller question.

I havent been flying down the road and been able to do a boost sweep through all the parameters, but I can make a run in boost set point 1, slow down enough to look down and change it, and then make another pass in another boost group. The only problem is traction. LOL On the lowest boost set point, I have a hell of a time getting traction in first and second. In the higher boost settings, I can forget about anyting in the first 3 gears unless its from a higher roll. It may get better with the heat of the summer.


That is pretty cool that your fuel adjusts or at least I would assume that. I have never been in a FI car that you can just throw boost at it without having to reprogram to throw more fuel... ahhhh the technologies nowdays! Now I really want to take a ride :D

NotRen wrote:
idk where you got that info about sway bars but it is not in the least bit correct. if you remove the rear sway bar the car would shift so badly to the passenger side it would probably be hard to drive. people who have fast fbods with a torque arm style suspension generally have a stiffer (than stock) rear sway bar. With out sway bars the car has no chance at staying level/leaving straight when you take off.


Hmmmm like I said, it was all hear-say, but fwiw, I have actually went to the track with a guy that had a Moser 9" with those others that I was talking about (adj phb's, torque arms and subframe connectors), and it definitely ran straight. Btw, he was also dumping his clutch at about 4500-5k off the line and throwing a 150shot on it too. He was carrying his front tire past the 60ft mark. He was not running sway bars and said that adjusting the PHB properly was the key.

Idk though because I am not familiar with using a suspension that is actually worth a crap, lol.

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Re: Following Protocol...
PostPosted: Fri Mar 12, 2010 7:38 am 
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LaTechGTO wrote:

Hmmmm like I said, it was all hear-say, but fwiw, I have actually went to the track with a guy that had a Moser 9" with those others that I was talking about (adj phb's, torque arms and subframe connectors), and it definitely ran straight. Btw, he was also dumping his clutch at about 4500-5k off the line and throwing a 150shot on it too. He was carrying his front tire past the 60ft mark. He was not running sway bars and said that adjusting the PHB properly was the key.

Idk though because I am not familiar with using a suspension that is actually worth a crap, lol.

adjusting the phb does nothing but keep your axle centered underneath the car, sfc's can help with chassis flex. i honestly dont see how he was not running sway bars that literally makes no sense. at any rate i generally leave at 7k here is a little vid for reference :) http://www.youtube.com/user/hatrickstu# ... 2UqSWpxy3U

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Re: Following Protocol...
PostPosted: Fri Mar 12, 2010 8:11 am 
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NotRen wrote:
adjusting the phb does nothing but keep your axle centered underneath the car, sfc's can help with chassis flex. i honestly dont see how he was not running sway bars that literally makes no sense. at any rate i generally leave at 7k here is a little vid for reference :) http://www.youtube.com/user/hatrickstu# ... 2UqSWpxy3U


Sorry, I didn't mean to say just PHB; I was in a hurry to finish typing that and get to work. I mean to say adjusting everything out.

Like I said, I am not familiar with f-body suspensions... as I have already proven time and time again, lol.

Centerville is where we used to go to the track back a couple years ago.... the guy I was talking about had a black WS6. His brother had a twin turbo 2003 mustang gt that would scream too. You might have ran into them up there... heck, I might have even met you before, lol.

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Re: Following Protocol...
PostPosted: Fri Mar 12, 2010 9:08 am 
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LaTechGTO wrote:
CorvetteChris wrote:
I forgot to answer your boost controller question.

I havent been flying down the road and been able to do a boost sweep through all the parameters, but I can make a run in boost set point 1, slow down enough to look down and change it, and then make another pass in another boost group. The only problem is traction. LOL On the lowest boost set point, I have a hell of a time getting traction in first and second. In the higher boost settings, I can forget about anyting in the first 3 gears unless its from a higher roll. It may get better with the heat of the summer.


That is pretty cool that your fuel adjusts or at least I would assume that. I have never been in a FI car that you can just throw boost at it without having to reprogram to throw more fuel... ahhhh the technologies nowdays! Now I really want to take a ride :D


The fuel pressure regulator I put on is boost referenced, so fuel pressure increased linearly with boost pressure. As far as fuel tables in HPT, nothing needs to be changed.

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Re: Following Protocol...
PostPosted: Fri Mar 12, 2010 9:24 am 
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I like the colors in this thread.

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Re: Following Protocol...
PostPosted: Fri Mar 12, 2010 9:26 am 
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i like apples.

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Re: Following Protocol...
PostPosted: Fri Mar 12, 2010 9:51 am 
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cow wrote:
I like the colors in this thread.


Keeps my thought process in order. Im not accustomed to typing more than a couple sentences per reply. haha

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Re: Following Protocol...
PostPosted: Fri Mar 12, 2010 10:04 am 
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CorvetteChris wrote:
Keeps my thought process in order. Im not accustomed to typing more than a couple sentences per reply. haha

Makes sense. I wish this forum had a multiquote button.

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Re: Following Protocol...
PostPosted: Fri Mar 12, 2010 3:05 pm 
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CorvetteChris wrote:
LaTechGTO wrote:
CorvetteChris wrote:
I forgot to answer your boost controller question.

I havent been flying down the road and been able to do a boost sweep through all the parameters, but I can make a run in boost set point 1, slow down enough to look down and change it, and then make another pass in another boost group. The only problem is traction. LOL On the lowest boost set point, I have a hell of a time getting traction in first and second. In the higher boost settings, I can forget about anyting in the first 3 gears unless its from a higher roll. It may get better with the heat of the summer.


That is pretty cool that your fuel adjusts or at least I would assume that. I have never been in a FI car that you can just throw boost at it without having to reprogram to throw more fuel... ahhhh the technologies nowdays! Now I really want to take a ride :D


The fuel pressure regulator I put on is boost referenced, so fuel pressure increased linearly with boost pressure. As far as fuel tables in HPT, nothing needs to be changed.

Well that makes sense. I will definitely store that in my memory for future use.
cow wrote:
I wish this forum had a multiquote button.

+1

Just arriving in Starkville... I'll be right beside MSU campus so I'll definitely be getting into something.

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Re: Following Protocol...
PostPosted: Fri Mar 12, 2010 3:58 pm 
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LaTechGTO wrote:
Just arriving in Starkville... I'll be right beside MSU campus so I'll definitely be getting into something.

did you drive down tech dr. today? i saw a yellow gto wasnt sure if it was yours.

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Re: Following Protocol...
PostPosted: Fri Mar 12, 2010 4:33 pm 
It's just a stock G5...
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That is pretty cool that your fuel adjusts or at least I would assume that. I have never been in a FI car that you can just throw boost at it without having to reprogram to throw more fuel... ahhhh the technologies nowdays! Now I really want to take a ride

This maybe a slight back track, but I too can do the same thing. It's all in the power of a well tuned MAF sensor. I'm guessing that's how u can do it as well Chris? I can go anywhere from wastegate 8.5lbs to 11.5lbs without a retune. However, after that I have a different map, since my timing tends to go sour above 12lbs. My car is tuned for 16lbs and it is on that current map. So I can run 12-16lbs on one map and have aggressive timing without knock or lean/pig rich fuel conditions.

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